20150128

Granularity XIII

Chapter 1: The old new

1.1. Pop plastic


1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2012
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011

1.2. Printed sleeve
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
3. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011

1.3. Candy stripe
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011
3. Dior Spring/Summer 2014

1.4. Japanese blossom
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015
3. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013


Chapter 2: The new old

2.1. Print psychodelia
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. David Bowie Ziggy Stardust, 1973
3. Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011

2.2. The V tuck
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Jane Fonda Barbarella, 1968
3. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2013

2.3. Shock stripe
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Sølve Sundsbø The Girls (Courreges), 2013
3. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2011

2.4. Fetish fetish
1. Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2015
2. Dior Fall/Winter 2002
3. Pierre Cardin 1960s

The Raf Sandior universe is a hermeneutic one. This time though, for Couture, he opened the gates to another dimension. Inviting in the future of the past of the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s together with its heroines, a pop cultural pastiche sneaks into the aesthetic repertroire. Stripes, sequins and plastic are not homoeopathic ingredients anymore, they become the core design platform. The restraint is gone.

Image credits Style.com, Vogue.co.uk

20150125

Now & Then XIX



1. Y-3 Fall/Winter 2015
2. Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2004

More retrogression. Construction-, not image-wise. Well, if something is that good, return, don't look back and repeat. And when in doubt, fall back on and stick to the original.

20150124

Fashion Charts XIV


1. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Fall/Winter 2015

2. Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2015

3. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2015

Longing for scribbles and doodles. Because, on a previous note, allover naïvety was the thing. School toilet art (Raf), tattoo body tights (Rei), impressionist fakes (Martin). When in doubt, return to craft, pen and paint.

Image credits Style.com

20150123

Now & Then XVIII



1. Raf Simons Fall/Winter 2015
2. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2004

'Retrogression' is a strong stream of avant-consciousness amidst fashion's current leaders. Looking back to the late 1990s and early 2000s to repeat history and one's very own archive. The new old, old new, new new characterizes Prada, Beirendonck and Simons.

20150121

Renaissance




Walter van Beirendonck Fall/Winter 2015

I love this a lot. Basically, it is about collage (on sleeveless plastic tops). Almost like body covers (with semi-soft-political slogans). After Miuccia and before Raf, Walter is successfully turning towards the old to find the new.

Image credits Style.com