Martin Did It First? II

1. Clegg & Guttmann Magister Ludi ((Collaboration with Martin Kippenberger), 1986
2. Acne Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. What makes appropriation relevant if the mindset behind a garment is one-season-only. A dirty fling without pleasure but frayed edges and ready-made commodity prints. Unfortunately, there is nothing innocent about the manipulation of an original.

See also Barbara did it first?

Martin Did It First?

1. Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 1991
2. Vetements Spring/Summer 2016

It is the age of Margiela. A designer youth who never experienced the product and poetry in the first place is looking back at something they never had but always wanted. The sadness, though, lies in its misinterpretation as consumerist critique.

See also Barbara did it first?


Double Trouble IV

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Ana Hernández-Cornet, discussing:
Koché Spring/Summer 2016

The couture detailing of French artisans marries shopping mall chic. Street and trash wrapped in feathers, intricate embroidery and heavy embellishment. Executed with a heart, too. If fashion is obsolete, can there then be 'couture to wear'?

The really good ones are the ones no one talks about. The secret ones. And I love Ken Price like no other. Amorphous organic creature sculptures, crawling up your back, biting you. An itch, a bitter taste of infection. Something bad, and something good. You are the chosen one.

1. Koché Spring/Summer 2016
2. Chanel Unknown, 2015
3. tumblr Wallpaper (Pool), 2013
4. Melanie Chisholm Spice Girls, 1994-2012
5. Matt Leines Painter In His Studio, 2013
6. Star Wars Revenge Of The Sith, 2005
7. Ken Price Venus, 2000
8. Koché Spring/Summer 2016


Double Trouble III

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Julia Heuse, discussing:
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016

Devine meets Leigh Bowery. Drag, clubwear, circus, disco, stripes, fur, electrocuted wigs on clowns. The 90s meeting precise draping and sharp cuts. I wanna be a fetish clown (venus in furs) drowning in pennies from the past, too.

Disco freaks, the miss- and mis-guided experiment of crossing John Waters with Donna Summer and having all derivates perform in a suburban cabinet of curiosities. It is 'Aliens' in sequin gowns and Stephen King's 'It' in a beauty pageant. Beauty prevails.

1. Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016
2. Leigh Bowery 1961-1994
3. Terence Koh Untitled (White Late), 2006
4. Anish Kappor Untitled, 1995
5. Tod Browning Freaks, 1931
6. Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Björk, 2011
7. Stephen King It, 1990
8. Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016


Double Trouble II

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Tomas C. Toth, discussing:
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016

Slashed and bound she keeps the chic. Out of work the distracted hair hides calmly under a bunker hat - shame under the rim. Is it really that she is frivolous or under attack? There are no scars under Fontana’s slashes and torn down sleeves, while rug ridden knees stay well concealed. She confuses with hues and forms of photographic remakes à la Morandi while disappearing in the ocher dust of schrapnel bombs. The real treat comes at home while she puts on her shoulders the ‘Artist’s Breath’ unrolling the curtains to the view of rolled up body bags.

All I ever wanted, all I ever needed, was nothing I deserved, and nothing I received. Holding on to the misery and tragical loss of a legend. Giving way to circus clowns and pantomime. Pantomiming fashion. It’s one of those performances without words. A silent movie for German tourists in Milan. Someone please pull the Paglialunga plug.

1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016
2. Sigalit Landau Barbed Hula, 2000
3. Oliver Laric Versions (Missile Variations), 2010
4. Filippo De Pisis Amanti, 1931
5. Grace Jones Warm Leatherette, 1980
6. Paul McCarthy Santa (with Butt Plug), 2002
7. Pablo Picasso Pierrot, 1918
8. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016